The New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion

“In ‘The New Black Vanguard: Photography between Art and Fashion’, curator and critic Antwaun Sargent addresses a radical transformation taking place in fashion and art today. The presentation of black figures and black runway and cover models in the media and art has been one marker of increasingly inclusive fashion and art communities. More critically, however, the contemporary visual vocabulary around beauty and the body has been reinfused with new vitality and substance thanks to an increase in powerful images authored by an international community of black photographers. In a richly illustrated essay, Sargent opens up the conversation around the role of the black body in the marketplace; the cross-pollination between art, fashion, and culture in constructing an image; and the institutional barriers that have historically been an impediment to black photographers participating more fully in the fashion (and art) industries. Fifteen artist portfolios feature the brightest contemporary fashion photographers. Alongside a series of conversations between generations, their images and stories chart the history of inclusion, and exclusion, in the creation of the commercial black image, while simultaneously proposing a brilliantly reenvisioned future.”–Publisher’s description.

Review Quotes:
“Systemic change is already afoot, with many of Sargent’s chosen photographers expanding the scope of their work… Righting historical wrongs is one of Sargent’s goals.”–Radhika Seth, Vogue

“…explores and expands the visual narrative on beauty and identity in mainstream culture, but also on ideas specific to gender.” –Rebecca Carroll, WNYC

“These photographers are spearheading a new aesthetic in fashion and art, and are currently some of the most sought-after names in the business.” –Kemi Alemoru, The Guardian

“The sheer size of emerging talent featured in The New Black Vanguard: Photography Between Art and Fashion, a new book by the curator, critic, and W contributor Antwaun Sargent, is astonishing.” –Stephanie Eckardt, W

” The New Black Vanguard is a celebratory and thought-provoking mesh of fashion and art.” –Eni Subair, Refinery29

“With photos illuminating life in Black America and the African diaspora, these artists are crafting a new way of speaking visually about politics and representation.” –Devine Blacksher, The Cut